If you're planning to install a 2000 jeep cherokee suspension lift, you've probably already realized that the XJ platform is one of the most versatile rigs ever built. Whether you're trying to clear 31-inch tires for some light trail riding or you want to go full-blown rock crawler with 35s, the suspension is where everything starts. It's the difference between a Jeep that feels planted and capable and one that feels like a terrifying death trap every time you hit a pothole on the highway.
The 2000 model year is a bit of a sweet spot for the Cherokee. It's late in the production run, so most of the kinks were worked out, but it still retains that classic boxy charm. However, since these Jeeps are now well over two decades old, "lifting" them isn't just about adding height. It's usually about replacing worn-out, sagging factory components that have seen better days. Honestly, most stock XJs you see on the road today are sitting an inch lower than they did in the showroom, so even a modest lift feels like a massive transformation.
Figuring Out How High You Actually Need to Go
One of the first mistakes people make is going too high too fast. It's tempting to look at a 6-inch long-arm kit and think, "Yeah, that's the one," but for a 2000 Jeep Cherokee, that level of lift introduces a whole world of mechanical headaches.
For most daily drivers and weekend warriors, a 2-inch to 3-inch lift is the "Goldilocks" zone. At 2 inches, you can usually get away with what people call a "budget boost." This usually involves plastic spacers for the front coils and extended shackles or an "add-a-leaf" for the rear. It's cheap, it looks good, and it doesn't mess with your driveline angles too much.
Once you jump to 3 inches, things get a bit more serious. You're looking at new front coil springs and, ideally, a full new leaf spring pack for the rear. Don't cheap out and do an add-a-leaf on a 24-year-old Jeep. Your factory springs are likely tired, and adding a single stiff leaf will just make the ride harsh and eventually cause the old springs to frown or sag again. A full leaf pack costs more, but your back will thank you every time you drive over a speed bump.
The 4.5-Inch Jump and Beyond
If you decide that a 2000 jeep cherokee suspension lift needs to be 4.5 inches or higher, you're entering the "pay to play" zone. At this height, the short control arms that come from the factory start to sit at a very steep angle. This means every time you hit a bump, the force is transferred directly into the unibody rather than being soaked up by the springs. It makes for a very jarring ride.
To fix this, you'll want to look into control arm drop brackets or, even better, a long-arm kit. Long arms replace those short factory links with much longer ones that mount further back on the frame. It levels out the geometry and makes the Jeep ride like a dream, even on rough terrain. But keep in mind, this requires cutting, welding, or at least a lot more drilling than a basic bolt-on kit.
Dealing With the Driveline Vibes
Here is the thing nobody tells you until your Jeep is already up on jack stands: the 2000 and 2001 models are particularly sensitive to driveline vibrations. Because of the way the transfer case is designed on these later years, even a small lift can cause the rear driveshaft to vibrate like crazy.
If you install a 2000 jeep cherokee suspension lift and suddenly feel a "hum" or a shudder under your seat at 40 mph, your pinion angles are out of whack. The "cheap" fix is a transfer case drop kit, which uses spacers to lower the whole assembly. It works, but it also eats up the ground clearance you just worked so hard to gain.
The "right" way to fix it is a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) and a CV driveshaft. It's a bit of an investment and requires some mechanical skill to install, but it solves the vibration issue permanently and makes the whole drivetrain much stronger. If you're going over 3 inches of lift, just go ahead and budget for an SYE from the start.
The Infamous Death Wobble
You can't talk about lifting an XJ without mentioning the "death wobble." It's that violent shaking of the steering wheel that feels like the Jeep is trying to disassemble itself at highway speeds. Lifting your Jeep doesn't technically cause death wobble, but it sure does highlight any worn-out parts in your front end.
When you install your lift, take a good look at your track bar. The track bar is what keeps the front axle centered under the Jeep. With a lift, the stock track bar is often too short, pulling the axle to one side. You'll need an adjustable track bar to get things centered again. While you're under there, check your tie rod ends and ball joints. If there's even a tiny bit of play in any of those components, a lift and bigger tires will turn that play into a major problem.
Don't Forget the Small Stuff
It's easy to get caught up in springs and shocks, but the little things will ruin your day if you ignore them. For example, brake lines. When you lift a 2000 Jeep Cherokee, the distance between the body and the axle increases. If you go off-roading and the axle drops down (flexes), you might find that your rubber brake lines are suddenly the only thing stopping the axle from falling further. That's a recipe for a snapped line and zero brakes. Extended stainless steel lines are a smart upgrade for anything over 2 inches.
Then there are the bump stops. Most people toss them in the trash or ignore them, but they're vital. Bump stops prevent your shocks from bottoming out and keep your new, expensive tires from shredding your fender flares when you're crawling over rocks. Take the time to cycle your suspension and see where the limits are.
Is It Worth Doing It Yourself?
One of the best things about the 2000 Jeep Cherokee is how easy it is to work on. You don't need a degree in engineering to install a suspension lift; a decent set of sockets, a floor jack, and some sturdy jack stands will get the job done.
However, be prepared for rust. If you live in a place where they salt the roads, those rear upper shock bolts are notorious for snapping off inside the unibody. It's a rite of passage for Cherokee owners. Soak every bolt in PB Blaster or Kroil for three days straight before you even think about picking up a wrench.
If you're not comfortable cutting out broken bolts or drilling into your frame, it might be worth taking it to a local off-road shop. But honestly, doing it yourself is half the fun. You'll learn exactly how your suspension works, which makes it much easier to trail-side repairs later on.
Final Thoughts on the Build
At the end of the day, a 2000 jeep cherokee suspension lift is one of the most rewarding upgrades you can do. It changes the entire personality of the vehicle. Just remember that it's a system—not just a collection of parts. If you change the height, you have to consider the steering, the driveline, and the braking.
Don't feel like you have to do everything at once. Start with a solid 3-inch kit, see how it drives, and then address the vibrations or steering issues as they come up. The XJ is a legendary platform for a reason, and with a little bit of height and some quality components, yours will be ready to tackle just about anything you throw at it. Keep it simple, do it right the first time, and you'll have a rig that's as reliable as it is capable.